An account of the Skedaddle road cycling trip in the Picose de Europa by the Mighty Gareth Quinn
This is my follow up to Life in the Fast Lane byabout the Dolomites holiday I took with Skedaddle and one that I am writing this under duress. It’s the only way, David, has told me that I can get one of the fabled Saddle jerseys. He is concerned that I will look prettier than him in the new catalogue which always seems to contain more photos of him than clients. So here goes…
The Picos de Europa in Northern Spain is famed for its mountain biking - in fact it was Skedaddle’s first European destination back in 1998 and they are still doing trips here. Road biking in the region is also big business, with many of Spain’s top professionals come from the region and it has one of the toughest climbs in Europe and probably the toughest climb that any professional would do racing.
I have done 5 Skedaddle trips and this was to be my 3rd new trip. Leaving London Stansted at 2pm the pilot informed us that the Spanish air traffic controllers had gone on strike. We had to sit in an isolated area of the airfield until they released us. The flight was uneventful. Ben, Michael and Wayel from the Pyrenees trip are on the flight. Arriving in Spain we were greeted with a very rugged coastline. There are 11 clients and 3 staff on this trip which I found out was the first time Skedaddle have ever run a Picos road trip. We had 2 surgeons, one radiologist, as well as a pharmacist so we were well covered in the event of a medical issue. The rest of the group were from a variety of professions including a history teacher and a hairy mountain bike guide.
An hour transfer followed the departure from the airport into the mountains. Everyone unpacked, had a few beers and then found out that the Spanish want to have dinner very late. This was a trend for the week and whilst unusual for me.
Day 1
Long hot climb to start the day. It was very beautiful, but it took its toll. Staying high we followed the contours and a high plateau around a lake and under a “well hung bridge” before starting the next winding climb. It was a grind for me but with plenty of encouragement and water from Felix we arrived at the top where a small tunnel provided shade and a cooling wind. The temperature was high but Phillip found a hay field with some shade to have lunch. We continued down the valley. Farming in this region is very traditional. There seems to be little mechanism. Stopping at a cafe we watched the professional peloton descend from the Port de Bales and A.Contador steal the tour from my mate Andy (we are riding buddies). The next 30km was a bit of a blur. We climbing up a valley into a strong headwind, so it was good to top out and descent to the hotel which was very steep in places. Wayel decided he wanted to get to know the tarmac and suffered some road rash. Luckily, this was the only accident all tour.
Day 2
“The L’Angliru is very hard, said Contador. The Cuena des Cabres with its 23.5 percent together with another part with its 21 percent are the worst parts. I did not climb with the appropriate development. I used a 39×27, that was too hard. I believe that the most appropriate will be 38×28 or somewhere around. When I compare with the Giro and the famous Mortirolo, I have to say that the Angliru is more difficult.”
Per the Mighty Quinn, this is one brutal mountain. The first 6km are fairly average, you then hit a ramp of 20% and then it averages over 13% for the next 5.5km. At the top there is a sign saying it is 1/2km @ 6% to the summit. This section is 16% a long ramp before it tails off and actually goes downhill for a section. The climb has been used in the Tour of Spain (Vuelta) 4 times. It was introduced at a time when the big tour organisers were trying to find steeper and steeper climbs. The tour has the Alpe, the Giro the Mortirolo and the Vuelta has a horrible ex-goat track that goes nowhere. The Mountain goats own this mountain Jimenez in 1999, Simoni in 2000, Heras in 2002 and the one and only - El Pistolero (Alberto) in 2008
The apprehension in the group was noticeable; the weather was overcast and misty higher up. Before reaching the Angliru which was in the next valley, we had a 5km climb with some steep 14% sections. It was a shock to the system. Dropping down a very narrow sinuous descent with some very loose sections we arrived at Vega. My back wheel didn’t feel right and Dean checked. The 25m tires had enough clearance in the dry buy in the wet the grit was rubbing the carbon frame. Not something I really wanted to find out! A quick change to 23m tires was needed and a cup of very thick hot chocolate. The van would meet us at the 6km mark but that was as far as it could go. The ride up the valley was lovely. The gradient on the lower slopes was a gentle 7-8% for 5km. The road then flattened out onto a plateau. This is where we all stopped to get ready for the next 6km. immediately, the road steepened to 20% on very steep hair pinned bends before straightening out on 13-14% ramps. This was a struggle. The climb was too well signed posted but it did give an opportunity to take some photos and get my breath back. Why didn’t I do some more training miles? It was getting worse. The section that was sign posted 23.5% was scary. It was very hard. The front wheel kept lifting and the back wheel would slip as soon as you tried to stand on the pedals. I can’t remember how long it lasted but I was just hanging on! Getting to the top of this section was a major achievement. I stopped at the top of this ramp, nearly having a heart attack (181bpm – the highest of the week) as my heart was pumping so quickly. I had done it in a 30*29. Dan appeared from the top along with Kristy who was on her way down. The weather was clearing and I could see the wall of pain in front on me. The rest of the group, who had made it to the top, shouted something but they seemed a long way away. 3 more hairpins left before topping out on the hardest climb I have ever done. Riding out above the clouds reminded me of my days in San Francisco climbing Mount Tam. It was beautiful, must be similar to making it to the pearly gates with hell down below in the clouds.
Forget about the 12km climb stats you read online. The piece that really matters is the 5.5km wall. Challenge yourself to ride it without walking. In my opinion having a rest midway is ok… The current Olympic champion who can see this climb from his house has only ridden it once for a 50 euro bet that he wouldn’t stop. He has never done it again. My time for the ride was 2 hours up and 25 minutes down.
Check out the following website http://cimacoppirides.wordpress.com/2010/02/18/i-got-my-mind-on-langliru/ to see the professionals doing their thing.
Descending very steep road in the wet with cows plus all the very slippery cow dung needed to be done carefully. I grabbed a quick lunch at the van before a further descent to the coffee shop. The rest of the day was a blur. It was very hard as I had gone way into the red zone and my energy levels weren’t there. We stopped at a small bicycle shop which had loads of photos of the professionals that live in the area. Only 18km to go up a gradual ascent of 1%. The legs wouldn’t work. Thanks to the group for staying with me to finish one really tough day. The hotel we stayed seemed to be very new. The dinner started with a local soup/stew. Loads of portions finished the day.
Day 3
Left a little earlier than the rest of the group as we had a 20km climb. The weather was overcast again and it took 10km to get the legs moving again. The climb was very gradual apart from a steep 12% section near the top. The descent was the fastest of the week with long straights and sweeping bends. It was so smooth. No need to touch the brakes at nearly 80kpm. Dropping down into a small local village which served pizza slices, we prepared for the next smaller climb up a narrow wooded valley. Lunch was quick as it seemed that the weather was changing. It was getting cold and we continued down to eventually contour around a lake. The only problem was the wind. It started to really blow. The sun arrived just as we hit the next climb. It was hot but thankfully the climb wasn’t that long or steep. The kilometres ticked by slowly for the last 25km into the wind to the hotel. This was the most uncomfortable night of the week. I had the choice of 2 beds but high in the alcoves of the hotel, the heat was amazing. When sleep arrived it was very restless.
Day 4
The first part of the ride was 54km around a number of amazing lakes. No traffic to speak of. We stopped for coffee at a small farm/cafe and everyone was in a happy mood as today was billed as the rest day. 112km later and 1154 metres of climbing we arrived in Potes for the night! The wind was horrible in the afternoon, especially on the Piedrasluenga. But once we crested this mountain we were greeted by the road dropping for 25km. We arrived just in time to see the tour come off the Soleur. They were descending the same roads I had done 12 months earlier. Potes is a lovely village and one of the gateways to the Picos. It has a lot of tourists it didn’t seem busy. The dinner was probably the best of the tour. Dan just ordered a selection of dishes which were served family style. There was far too much food even to cram in a pudding.
Day 5
26km of climbing greeted me at the start of the day up the Puerto de san Glorio @ 1609 metres. The legs wouldn’t work for the first 10km but gradually as the gradient increased the climb opened up into a spectacular valley. On these climbs, I break the totals into portions, either the next 100 metres, next 5 minutes etc. It still took me nearly 2 hours but the effort was worth it. Dropping down the descent we were greeted with an open valley and empty roads. The next climb was up an even narrower road and I had the pleasure of riding with Dean and Maura who were usually up front. I was wondering if they were tired or I was getting stronger? I suspect they just wanted to chat. Over the top of this climb the Picos came into view. Dan knew many of these mountains as he is also a climber. The road was just like a farm track now. It was a very narrow single track road with loads of potholes and loose gravel. It turns out that they are building a new road that in my opinion will spoil this area. The 3rd climb of the day before lunch wasn’t enjoyable. I was hungry. It was hot and I want to pack it in. Arriving at the top we had a working dog for company during lunch. These dogs follow the sheep herds all over the mountains in the spring/summer months. Dan warned us that the next climb was a killer, before we would have a wonderful descent down the mountain along a deep gorge before ending up at a bar were we told that cider was the local drink. The less I say about this killer climb the better. You need to see it to believe….
On the descent, I topped out on my bike speed record of 308KPH! At the bar, Dan also demonstrated how to drink the cider. I think he has had a lot of practice.
Day 6
Final day. We had the option of an early morning out and back climb to Lagos de Covadonga. Lagos de Covadonga is the most important climb in the modern history of the Vuelta. It was featured for the first time in 1983 with the victory of Marino Lejarreta. The road that leads to the lakes starts at Covadonga. We had a 5 km warm up before hitting the 12.6 kilometres long climb at an average gradient of 7.3% (height gain: 1056 m). The most demanding section is La Huesera, 7 kilometres from the top of the climb, with an average gradient of 15% during 800 meters. There are many sections that are between 10-13%. The climb seems to top out but then goes downhill twice (one section at 13%) before finally topping out at the lakes. We were very lucky as the weather cleared and we were treated to wonderful views. Another challenge with this climb is that it is closed to all traffic apart from large tour buses. This makes the descent especially dangerous as together with sheep and cows the corners have to be taken extremely carefully. Maura saw this in real-time rounding a corner to meet a cow on one side of the road and a large 40 ton bus on the other. She came very close to serious injury – you have been warned. One member of the group decided that they would get on the bus and for 7 euros had a bus tour trip to the top along with their bike. No names but they should get a prize for quick thinking.
Back to the hotel with 36km completed, we then had a long run along a fairly busy road, down a narrow gorge to lunch, naturally with a 400m ascent thrown in. After lunch there was a feeling in the group that we had only a couple of hours to go but this was fairly painful as Saddle wanted to make sure we did our 2000 metres of climbing so they seemed to have found as many short steep climbs as possible to get to the hotel, The run in was along the coast so we also had a side wind to deal with. The hotel was a certainly welcome sight except the beers that were served turned out to be 3 years over their use-by date.
A last supper with too many drinks, prizes. The Mighty Quinn won the most aggressive rider (started earlier than the group so therefore got to the top of the first climb first), and fastest decent of the week - 308 kph. The Garmin wasn’t playing well with the satellites on the narrow gorge descent on day 5. Maura had a reading of 180kph so it wasn’t just my Garmin.
This was another brilliant trip by the Saddle crew. I am continually amazed with the guides. Dan, Felix and Phillip were great!!!!
My final stats are from the Garmin 705:
Total distance 686.12 km in 35.58 hours
34100 calories equals 162 pints of Guinness
Total ascent 12209 metres
Some Practical Issues:
In my opinion, this is a trip where you bring your own bike. You need the correct gearing for the Angliru but there are other climbs with 16% gradients. The reason for this is not the climbs but the descents. You need to know your own bike and how it performs under braking. There are lots of very steep hills with hairpins and longer straights. New tyres and brake blocks are a must.
You will also need to bring your own pumps, tyres levers, tubes etc as on the Angliru and Covadonga there will be no support. Two water bottle cages are also important as it can get hot inland.
Dinner/daily drinks were very cheap in the countryside/mountains. We sometimes only spent 10euros for dinner and wine. Closer to the coast and the tourist areas this became more expensive, however the most we paid was 28 euros each.
Day 1 - 126km - 2383m
Day 2 - 92.90km - 2232m
Day 3 - 109.5 - 1998m
Day 4 - 112km - 1154m
Day 5 - 123 km - 2285m
Day 6 - 121 - 2158 m
Gareth Quinn