Read all about our Tea and Temples cycling holiday through Japan in this great travel diary.

 “I want this to be a holiday you’ll remember for the rest of your lives,” said our ex-mountain bike champion and tour leader Vince. He was handing around our little Japanese survival kits in brightly coloured drawstring bags to our group of seven cyclists who were comfortably finishing our breakfast in the delightful Three Sisters Inn Annexe in Kyoto.Tentatively we withdrew the contents and discovered an attractive pair of chopsticks in their own patterned box, a One World cycling water bottle and an ominously small and thin towel, the purpose of which became clear as our trip progressed. For the present though we packed our newly acquired chopsticks,water  bottle with our sunscreen and headed out to explore beautiful Kyoto for the next two days. As well as cultural sight seeing , this enabled us to test the comfort of our new steeds,Trek and Gary Fisher mountain bikes which Vince, originally a Goulburn lad, had efficiently adapted to suit each of us on our arrival the day before. Following our calm and competent leader who has spent almost twenty years cycling in Japan we cycled on a mixture of  footpaths,tracks and roads, taking advantage of traffic in Kyoto being limited to 30kmh. We cycled along Kyoto’s huge landmark river, through intricate streets with exquisite tiny shops to Vince’s favourite temples, including the Pure Water Temple where we strolled in awe, enjoying the magnificent structures and cool, picturesque gardens which utilise many of those intriguing Zen features of rocks, moss, water and lush plants such as azaleas and maples. We soon realised our new chopsticks were for the first of many sumptuous picnic lunches that Masa, our Japanese support driver extraordinaire, provided in marvelous locations, which only became more impressive as our trip progressed. Kyoto, a former capital of Japan for over 1000 years, has 1600 Buddhist temples, over 400 Shinto shrines and 17 UNESCO World Heritage sites. Venturing out at night through the colourful Gion area we enjoyed several of the many styles of Japanese cuisine, including the ‘do it yourself’ okonumiyaki, where the table is really just a big hot plate for cooking highy seasoned omelette concoctions. 

Farewelling the charming and traditional Three Sisters Inn on our third day we were soon following a winding river up and through the mountains  which surround Kyoto on paved quiet roads . Lush, green and shady the mountain forests of pine and cedar boast waterfalls and drifts of wild iris, wisteria and azaleas. Our group was already declaring Japan a cycling paradise, a feeling which only increased as we cycled through small rural villages and  mixed farms to a delightful thatched cottage in Miyama, which was our YHA home for the night. Before a calligraphy lesson and a traditional multi course dinner, Vince gently introduced us to the protocol of the Japanese bath, the onsen.  We listened intently, particularly to the use of those small thin towels. The YHA provided an easy introduction for us to learn polite bath practice in preparation for a larger and more public bath house with a glorious view across Wakata Bay when we reached the Sea of Japan at Obama  the following day. Here the traditional merged with the modern , when, after a traditional tea ceremony we meandered across to a rock concert on the beach, complete with hula girls which was launching a CD celebrating Obama for Obama.It was here that we discovered the joys of the yukata, the traditional cool, cotton kimono worn by both men and women alike to the bath house or just for a stroll along the beach. Views over Wakata from the beautiful mountain as we cycled up the next day were well worth the effort, with morning tea at the top. After a thrilling descent we enjoyed a Japanese curry al fresco at a woodcraft and gift shop. I do not know how we also managed a typical pub meal that night with a veritable feast of fried oysters, chicken, tofu and beef and an introduction to sake, which is definitely best when hot. Obviously in need of more sustenance we learnt how to make traditional dishes at a wonderful cooking school the next day, eating the products of our labour for lunch. Fortunately we rode all afternoon along the harbour’s edge and inland to the glorious Mikata Five lakes district where our bags were already waiting in the most beautiful accommodation I have ever seen, an up market yet traditional wooden ryokan. 

We relaxed luxuriously in our  segregated  hot soaking  indoors and outdoors bathing pools and discovered that here we were to wear our yukatas, always provided in our rooms, to dinner, alleviating the  need to fuss about what to wear. Yukatas come with an elegant little jacket for cooler weather or a more formal look. Dinner was a meal to remember and linger over, with the moon reflecting on the lake, individual burners to cook slices of tender beef on, sushimi, crisp tempura and numerous tiny intriguing dishes. Our group sparkled conversationally, resplendent in our yukatas and sipping sake. Mirroring the elegance and simplicity of design of traditional architecture, each bedroom with its water view, tatami mats and flower arrangement was a work of art. It was difficult to leave, but an off road experience with an extensive climb over the Mihama Mountains, rewarded by an exciting downhill, was on the agenda. This was the only day I used my camelback and I was proud of my new found mountain bike skills as I zigzagged very bumpily the 11 km down to our next beautiful picnic site.Our group was a little quieter than usual as we contemplated not only our recent hill challenges but our last day on Honshu. The next day we were to travel to Osaka by train and after several hours of sightseeing, catch the very comfortable overnight ferry to Kyushu, island of steam, mud baths and volcanoes. Beppu, in the early morning light, sprouted columns of steam all through the town, already setting the scene for a different experience in its volcanic topography. After a glorious bus ride past alpine health and recreation facilities built in the 20’s, into Aso- Kuju National Park, we began our ride from the top of My Kuju Pass, with a dramatic descent into valleys of farmland, through forest on an intricate network of paved farm roads to a charming inside/ outside onsen set beside a river.A lunch time bath seemed perfect as by now we were proficient at politely juggling those small towels for modesty, which are also used as washers while showering  before entering the soaking baths. Cycling clothes back on, we pedalled on and down into the world’s largest caldera to our destination, a small town at the foot of Mt Aso. We spent a welcome three days at Akamizu Lodge, cycling up mountains, through cedar forests, down mountain trails, picnicking beside river gorges including Kikuchi Gorge, with magnificent waterfalls and gasping at the stunning views. I believe that cycling up mountains beside an excellent raconteur renders any mountain insignificant. Our group had excellent opportunities to tell stories,discuss books,movies and our personal hopes and dreams while testing this theory. Climbing the popular Mt Aso was our hottest day (34) and also our only encounter with traffic. Fortunately the final section to the active volcano’s bubbling lake could be ridden in a gondola. Wild pink azaleas growing in the otherwise barren summit  were astonishing and a reminder of the success of plants in their natural habitat. After yet another stunning descent, naturally heated mud baths were a once in a lifetime experience. Once again we were reluctant to leave our charming and comfortable traditional hotel with its beautiful rock pool hot bath and delicious Japanese breakfasts that included croissants. We were also very attached to the Aso yukatas, definitely our most attractive, and companionably cleaning our teeth with a stunning view of mountains such as the Sleeping Buddha out the window. 

Rain greeted us for the first time as we prepared to make an energising descent from a volcano summit to an exquisite little town, Sensui, near the largest single span pedestrian bridge in Japan. After a rainy night and a twenty four course traditional dinner at our minshuku, we walked across the bridge which loomed impressively out of a dense mist much to Vince’s disappointment. The gorges, waterfalls and forests far below were just visible peeking through patches of swirling fog. We cycled on to our final destination, Yufuin, a charming little town surrounded by mountains and which offered shopping opportunities for us as well as for the many Japanese tourists who visit Kyushu to walk to a series of shrines as a pilgrimage, carrying decorative staffs. We shared a karaoke experience in a tiny bar and discovered that not everybody who cycles can sing. Our last cycling day was through a  myriad of tiny paved roads, through villages, farmland and forest with a glorious picnic spot beside a lake, a site for summer camping. We arrived back at Beppu, tired but elated having completed for some of us, the most challenging but beautiful rides of our lives. Our group unanimously agreed that Vince and Masa deserve accolades for the extraordinary planning and research which underpin the success of their tour. Each day in this wonderfully exotic location provided variety and excitement and heaps of surprises and delights. As one of our group said, “Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better it does.” We were sad to farewell each other after dinner back in Kyoto and sad to leave those excellent bikes without which I, at least , would not have reached the summit of those mountains. We were also already missing lovely Masa who had become a dear friend. Our small thin towels now serve as guest hand towels but evoke memories of a camaraderie in the bath house sadly not known in Western culture while our chopsticks have pride of place in the kitchen. Yes Vince, you certainly gave us all a holiday to remember for the rest of our lives. 

Carol Kelly   

I am just back from an 18 day cycling holiday to Japan, and what a blast the holiday turned out to be. The holiday was organised by Saddle Skedaddle, a cycling tour company based in Newcastle, England. (Check out www.skedaddle.co.uk – they have some fantastic holidays). I was going to post a blog of the trip on the Wheelers’ website, but Japan is surprisingly short of internet cafes and it was impossible to find the time or place to get any notes posted. But what a trip it was! Japan is a place that I’d always wanted to visit and it didn’t disappoint.

First off, we were blessed with the best cycling tour guides I’ve ever met. An Australian by the name of Vincent Flanagan (I wonder where his ancestors came from) and a local man named Maso Tanaka. Vincent is a retired professional cyclist who still works with Trek cycling in Japan. He has lived in Kyoto, Japan for over twenty years, speaks fluent Japanese, and was great at helping us to understand the nuances and subtleties of Japanese culture. The cycling itself was an absolute treat. Some road cycling, some off road and a few singletrack outings kept us busy. There were a couple of serious climbing days too, with one particularly memorable ascent to the rim of the active volcano, Mount Aso.

We tried our hand at Japanese cooking, calligraphy and the inevitable karaoke bar. All of these were great fun, but the things I liked best were the Japanese food and, oddly enough, a chance to travel on the Shinkansen, the famous bullet train. I love Japanese food anyway, and it is so beautifully presented that it almost seems a shame to eat it. It’s not often that I photograph my dinner before I tuck in, but I felt compelled to do just that on several occasions. (The only previous time I photographed my food, it had been prepared by my present wife (The War Office) and I just thought it might be a good idea to have a photo for use at any subsequent inquest). I tried almost everything that was put in front of me, but I just couldn’t bring myself to eat raw horsemeat or a plateful of sea snails. Other than that, I gave it a go and it was fantastic.

Travelling on the bullet train was an experience in itself. (So is travelling by British Rail, but for different reasons). The train pulled into Kyoto at 30 seconds before the scheduled departure time, and took off precisely on the minute of departure. We rocketed towards Tokyo at over 300Kph, but without any sense of speed or drama. I read somewhere that the Shinkansen have operated in Japan since 1964 without a single accident – an incredible statistic!

I haven’t even mentioned the scenery yet (beautiful and ever changing, especially on the southern volcanic island of Kyushu where we cycled for a week), the temples and Geishas of Kyoto, the politeness and grace of the Japanese people, the cleanliness, the complete absence of litter, the beautifully furnished accommodation, the fact that vandalism and street crime are unknown in Japan, the staggering experience that is a weekend in Tokyo (female Wheelers would kill for a shopping trip to Ginza), and, best of all, the Onsen.

The Onsen are traditional public baths (cleanliness is a national obsession in Japan) where you go to unwind after a busy day. You have a shower before entering, and than relax in naturally heated water from local hot springs. The water usually contains sulphur and other minerals and it was just blissful to climb off the bike after a hard 80km and luxuriate for an hour or so in a hot communal bath. Therapy just doesn’t come any better than that.

Downsides? Well, it takes about twelve hours to get there, and it was expensive. But think of it this way. You could go on this holiday or spend the money on smoking twenty cigarettes a day for a year. I know which I’d rather do.

Cycling in Japan photos. Check out these photos from the Skedaddle cycling holiday in Japan.

click here or to see a selected few on facebook click here

Many thanks to Andrew Pentelow for allowing us to use these photographs!!!

He can even now write his name in Japanese!!

The sound is deafening. There are ten of us in the tiny bar, and we’re all yelling at the top of our lungs in the name of “Karaoke”, the national pastime the Japanese use to let their hair down. The bar owner has already had to go next door and apologise to his neighbours for the racket. “HERE WE ARE NOW, ENTERTAIN US”, sing Nirvana, accompanied by a group of very tired but happy Skeddaddlers, celebrating their last night of a fantastic trip.
Scroll back 2 and half weeks and I’m excitedly sat on the plane somewhere above Russia with an air of naivety and expectation, on the way to Osaka.

This superb desert biking adventure focuses on the deep south of Morocco, a land of big skies and stark mountain ranges where mud-brick kasbahs appear to rise up out of the desert, sitting in tranquil palm oases and framed by dramatic backdrops of snowcapped mountains. We ride along Morocco’s dirt roads, taking us from Marrakech to the Tichka Pass, the highest in the High Atlas, and then southward, descending along the Draa Valley to the fringes of the Sahara Desert.